This page describes the rough grinding process.
Use this checklist to make sure you are ready to start rough grinding:
You may click on the hyperlinks in the above checklist to visit the pages where we discuss each of these items. When all the check list items are done, you are ready to start grinding!
Warning!With any glass grinding operation, you must work wet, to prevent glass dust from entering your lungs. Always keep the glass and tool wet to prevent glass dust from becoming airborne. Never grind glass dry! Inhaling glass dust can result in Silicosis, a serious lung disease. Keeping your work wet is a proven technique to prevent inhalation of glass dust. Keep your work and wet and you should not have to worry! |
| Rough grinding is often called "Hogging Out", as your
goal is to remove the majority of the glass needed to form the curve of
your mirror. It is not particularly elegant work, being the noisiest and
messiest part of the whole mirror making process. GOAL: You have completed rough grinding when you have:
ABRASIVE: Use your coarsest grit. This is usually for #60 Silicon Carbide, but may be #80 for 6" or smaller mirrors, and might be #40 for very large mirrors. TOOL: Use your hard tool (Glass or Tile). Start with the tool on the bottom. STROKES: Begin with the Chordal Stroke and as the curve spreads towards the edge end with the Normal Stroke (See text below for transition information). TIME: A 6" f/8 or 8" f/6 mirror will typically be rough ground in 3 to 6 hours or work, depending on mirror size, grit size, pressure applied (more pressure means short wets but more glass removed) and personal work style. |
![]() Peter uses the Chordal Stroke on a new 8" Mirror |
PROCEDURE:
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The Spreading Curve Curve Depth Greatly Exaggerated |
FINISHING UP ROUGH GRINDING:
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![]() Cleaning a Turntable |
| CONGRATULATIONS: You have finished rough grinding! On to Fine Grinding | |
A wet is one unit of work on your mirror, begun with a spray of water, a charge of grit, and then grinding until the grit breaks down and you are no longer doing useful work, or on finer grits until the wet dries out. It doesn't matter if you spray or sprinkle first - I like to spray first, but the young man I was photographing (below) preferred to sprinkle the grit first.
For rough grinding a 6" mirror, about 1/2 teaspoon of grit is used per wet. With finer grits, proportionately less grit is used per wet. Grits in the25 micron range are often premixed with water to form a slurry, and water and grit are squirted onto the work together from a plastic squeeze bottle (not a spray bottle).
![]() Sprinkle on Grit |
![]() Spray on Water Always Work Wet! |
![]() Grind Until Grit Breaks Down or Work Dries Out |
Cleaning the Mirror & ToolAfter several wets, your mirror and tool will be covered in a gray mud of ground glass and spent abrasive. You will need to clean them off periodically, because the mud will inhibit efficient grinding or you need to take a measurement. You need not do this after every wet; every 5 to 10 wets is typical practice. The best way to clean is to use a plastic dunk bucket. Just dunk the mirror and tool into the plastic bucket filled with water a swish a bit; all the mud will wash right off and fall to the bottom. DO NOT RINSE MUD DOWN YOUR DRAIN - it will build up into a hard cement and you will be calling the plumber very shortly. To clean out your dunk bucket, you can pour off the water down a sink drain, then scrape out the gray mud into a plastic bag, or hose it out in your yard (it is very harmless and inert stuff, not much different than beach sand). If you need to dry off the mirror for a measurement, a soft cloth towel or paper towels will do the job. |
![]() Cleaning a Mirror in a Dunk Bucket |
Page last edited 2007-Sep-23